A Month in Sicily (Between Octopus and Italian Cards) with Ratings

We spent a month in Sicily, mostly playing Italian cards and eating octopus. That was about 90% of the trip. The other 10% we moved around a little—and it was magic. Slow mornings, long lunches, beaches that felt like they’d swallowed time, and towns that seemed to exist purely for you to wander. Shoutout to Anna-Lisa from Justpack for the well-timed tips that kept us from missing some gems.

If you’re someone who notices shadows on stone, the curve of an old stair, or the way a roofline meets the sky—Sicily will hit you in the best way.

Here’s where we went (and what stuck with me) with ratings:

Taormina 8/10

Probably the most picturesque place I’ve ever seen. Yes, it’s touristy - and probable worse now after White Lotus S2, which is why the rating is what it is, but—it’s gorgeous. Everything is about framing the view: streets winding into balconies that suddenly open up to the sea. We stayed at UNAHotels Capotaormina (yep, that is the one from White Lotus Season 2, episode 2). Built into rock, right on the water.

Every meal was special here, especially Villa Zuccaro where we sat in a candlelit back garden surrounded by ivy. Even the cutlery felt right. We ate at Luchio’s, very casual restaurant, thrice. We also hiked Mount Etna, which was surreal—blackened lava fields with pockets of green where nature’s creeping back. Pictures don’t do it justice. It’s really something you have to feel.

Ortigia / Siracusa 9/10

A tiny island, sun-washed and tight, connected by two bridges. The whole place is pale stone, pink plaster, worn edges. Evenings were for wandering without a plan. We found a little wine bar—Enoteca Via Roma 23—that felt like it had been waiting for us: weathered shelves, hand-painted signage, open bottles everywhere.

Noto 100000/10

Small, golden, perfect. The whole town, at a high elevation, glows at sunset because most of the buildings are carved out of honey-coloured limestone. Architecturally, it’s like one long rhythm of arches and facades. Caffè Sicilia (yes, the one from Chef’s Table) was worth it—we went twice. The interiors are unfussy, the desserts are tiny sculptures. It’s an absolute must when you’re in Sicily.

Marzamemi 8/10

We stopped here mid-drive. It’s an old fishing village and still feels like it: nets drying, chipped paint, sun-bleached doors. There isn’t “much” to do. That’s the beauty. Wish we had more time to do nothing here.

Palermo 10/10

Wild. Noisy. Wonderful. Food markets like Ballarò and Vucciria are full theatre—shouts, smoke, music. Then suddenly you’re in a quiet courtyard with a baroque balcony falling apart in the prettiest way. You feel the Arabic influence everywhere: in food, arches, tile patterns. The amount of detail inside each basilica was like nowhere else I’ve seen in Italy. Even the walls were three-dimensional sculptures.

We had dinner at Buatta, drinks at Dal Barone, then an aperitivo on the rooftop at Hotel Quattro Canti, watching the city buzz below. For art, Galleria d’Arte Moderna was incredible. I loved the colours of the walls inside; not just stark white walls for gallery space. And there was also Palazzo Reale and the surrounding gardens. Precise, ornate, almost impossibly still.

Cefalù 12/10

We only stayed for an afternoon, and it wasn’t long enough. The way the town presses up against the sea is seamless—tiled roofs tucked under cliffs, a long beach, flat promenade. It’s perrrrfect for kids: gentle, walkable, contained. I need to go back here properly.

Trapani 10/10

Our reset spot. We stayed here for the longest time and took day trips to surrounding areas. Spent mornings in the same café, sitting in the same chairs, listening to nonni argue over espresso. Spent evenings at our secluded little beach watching the sunset with a glass of something (and cards). It was so slow and lovely. The town feels quieter, humbler. Architecture is simple, lived-in. Best meal of the trip was here—Ristorante Ardigò, in the middle of nowhere, serving dishes that were thoughtful without being showy.

Favignana (Egadi Islands) 10000/10

We spent my birthday. We rented bikes, followed the coast, and stopped wherever the water looked irresistible. Jumped in, dried off, kept moving. It’s raw—no polish, no curated charm. Just salt, stone, and wild grass. I loved it for that. I need to be back.

San Vito Lo Capo 4/10 + Riserva dello Zingaro 9/10

This stretch really surprised me. San Vito Lo Capo was fine - we didn’t love it, didn’t hate it. It was just fine. Perhaps it was our particular experience, but I don’t need to go back. 

However - the beaches at Riserva dello Zingaro are something else. They are hike-in only, and the effort is so worth it. You really have to be prepared with food and water because there is nothing to buy here. But again- incredibly worth it. Some of the nicest beaches I’ve ever been to in my life. And then there was Tonnara di Scopello, which felt like a film set—stone buildings, a private cove, turquoise water so calm you could hear yourself think. I’ll be back to this whole area for sure. They get a 9 because they are difficult to get to, so maybe not best with kids. 

Erice 7/10

Hilltop town in the clouds. We went at sunset with mist rolling through, and even with my allergies (couldn’t see straight), it left an impression. Cobblestones, iron details, stone walls—it’s the textures you remember. One of the smallest towns I’ve ever visited in italy. You don’t need more than half a day here. 

Cretto di Burri 10/10

One of the most powerful places I’ve ever walked. A land art piece built on top of a town destroyed by an earthquake. Vast, white, geometric. It’s grief carved into land. You walk in silence. You feel it.

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That was the trip. Equal parts design inspiration and reset. Sicily doesn’t hand you everything at once—you have to slow down to catch it. But when you do, it’s everywhere: in the stone, in the streets, in the way people live.

If you’re planning to go and want the practical stuff—where we stayed, what we skipped, how we mapped it out—send me a note. Always happy to talk design and travel.